Silky Cauliflower Whip

In my family, “dip hour” is an important part of the holidays. You could also call it “cocktail hour,” because there are usually cocktails and they are not an afterthought. But dips, and the other snacks and bites that they appear with, is equally important and perhaps adds more of an anchor to the ritual than anything else. Dip hour is our signal, during this celebratory time, that we’re switching fully to party mode.

This silky cauliflower whip will be my contribution this year. It’s a bit magical, how cauliflower cooked down with a few aromatics and then blitzed with tahini, can create something so flavorful, creamy, and a magnetic draw for crudités or crackers. The recipe came about because we’ve been scaling back on our dairy intake — I’ve been playing with cauliflower creams to use as a sauce, and this happened by accident. It’s thick, punchy, and striking. I hope you love it as much as we do. I find it to be as delicious as a dip as I do as a smear underneath leafy and grainy salads, where it adds body, flavor, and distinction as it mingles with the other components.


Silky Cauliflower Whip

While it may not determine the flavor, a high-speed blender is pretty integral to creating a silky consistency here. If using a food processor or hand-held blender instead, be as thorough as you can, allowing the motor to run for several minutes and scraping the sides of your container often, to create the silkiest, creamiest consistency possible.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus additional for drizzling
1 medium leek, white and pale green parts only, cleaned and diced
1 medium or 1/2 large fennel bulb, cored an diced
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus additional
1 pound cauliflower (1 small, or 1/2 large), broken into florets
2 tablespoons white wine, vermouth, or mirin
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup well-stirred tahini
Aleppo, Silk, or Maras or other smoky, fruity dried chilis, for dusting

Place a wide pot, dutch oven, or sauté pan that comes with a lid over medium heat, and when hot, add the oil, followed by the leek, fennel, and a big pinch of salt. Cook until the vegetables are softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the cauliflower florets, followed by the wine and water. Cover and cook until the vegetables are soft enough that you can break them apart using a wooden spoon, another 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the lid and continue cooking until most of the liquid is cooked off.

Transfer the vegetables to a blender pitcher, and add the tahini. Blend, starting on low speed and gradually increasing it, until very light and creamy, scraping the sides as necessary. If you need to get the mixture moving, add water a tablespoon at a time. Taste for seasoning and adjust as necessary. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with chili flakes if desired.

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