Baked Chestnut Risotto with Mushrooms
A few weeks ago I found myself with a big bag of chestnuts. They’re not something I have on hand often or even know that well—I didn’t grow up roasting them on an open fire, and what little experience I have is with the pre-cooked variety—and so it was my first time I cooked them myself (in the oven, but still fun). With plenty of leftovers, I got enjoy them in a few different ways: snacking on them out of hand, mashing up while warm with salt and butter, stirring into sautéed Brussels sprouts, and also blending them into a soup I was making. I especially loved the sweet, distinctive flavor they imparted in the soup, their starchiness serving as such a luxurious thickener.
I’ve since incorporated them into what I think is a very festive risotto, blending chestnuts (a store-bought pouch of pre-cooked ones, like these, or those you’ve roasted yourself) with a quick dried mushroom infusion to create something of a chestnut “cream,” and having that function as some of the cooking liquid for the rice. It fully infuses the dish with that distinctive sweet flavor and lends some extra creaminess, which all pairs terrifically with mushrooms. So here’s my contribution for a holiday-worthy vegetarian main that imparts a feeling of luxury and cheer (chestnuts! good mushrooms!) as well as the warm, comforting, richness that our bodies and souls deserve after such a tumultuous year.
Don’t be deterred that this is a three-pan affair—the recipe makes it look more complicated than it actually is. Think of it as three components. In one saucepan, you’ll prepare a mushroom (and chestnut) broth using dried mushrooms, which is also the basis of the chestnut cream. In a large Dutch oven-type vessel, you’ll make the risotto—simplifying the process a bit by mostly cooking it in the oven. Then in a skillet, you’ll sear mushrooms (and chestnuts) to serve as the topping. You can certainly skip the seared mushrooms to simplify things, folding in the reserved chestnuts after the risotto comes out of the oven—but not if you’re going for a showstopper.
Baked Chestnut Risotto with Mushrooms
If you can get an interesting variety of fresh mushrooms for the topping, they’re showcased here, so it’s a worthwhile opportunity. And porcini is a decadently distinctive flavor in the risotto, but other types of dried mushrooms work too—particularly one of those forest blends. Lastly, the Parmesan cheese truly is optional. Make this vegan, and really just as good, by opting for the olive oil over butter and skipping the little bit of cheese.
Serves 4 as a main
1 cup roasted & peeled chestnuts (from a 5.2 ounce package, or roasted on your own)
About ¼ cup dried porcini mushrooms
¼ cup dried shiitake mushrooms (4-6)
4 tablespoons butter or olive oil, divided
1 large leek, or 2-3 smaller ones, white and pale green parts only, sliced thinly
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 ½ cups arborio rice
½ cup dry white wine
8 ounces fresh mushrooms, preferably a variety, torn into bite-sized pieces
1 tablespoon whiskey or bourbon
Freshly ground black pepper
Freshly grated parmesan cheese (optional)
Preheat the oven to 325 F.
Set aside 6 of the chestnuts to use for topping the risotto, and place the rest in a saucepan along with the dried mushrooms and 6 cups water. Bring to a simmer, then remove from the heat let stand for about 20 minutes, until the mushrooms are soft. Use a skimmer or slotted spoon to remove the reconstituted mushrooms and coarsely chop them (discarding the tough shiitake stems). Measure out 2½ cups of the mushroom broth, reserving the rest.
In a dutch oven or other oven-safe pot that comes with a lid, melt 2 tablespoons butter or olive oil over medium heat, then add the leeks, bay leaves, and salt. Cook until the leeks are tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the rice, stirring for another minute or two, until fragrant. Then raise the heat slightly and stir in the wine. Once it’s absorbed, stir into the measured mushroom liquid and the chopped reconstituted mushrooms. Bring to a simmer, lid the pot, and transfer to the oven. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, until the rice is tender and has absorbed most of the liquid. Leave the pot covered after removing from the oven.
Meanwhile, use a slotted spoon to transfer the soaking chestnuts to a tall measuring cup, and cover with enough of the mushroom liquid to measure 1½ cups. Use an immersion blender to thoroughly puree until you have chestnut cream. Season with a few pinches of salt, to taste.
Also while the risotto is in the oven: In a skillet, melt the remaining butter or warm the remaining olive oil, then sear the fresh mushrooms over medium-high heat until nicely browned and just tender (timing will vary depending on type of mushroom). Coarsely chop or quarter the reserved chestnuts, then stir them in. Deglaze the pan with the whiskey and season with salt. Remove from the heat.
Once the risotto is out of the oven, add the chestnut cream and stir thoroughly. Season with black pepper and taste for salt. Let the pot sit covered until it’s time to eat, and if you need to re-warm, do so on the stove top, stirring in a few ladlefuls of the mushroom liquid to loosen the risotto as needed (there will likely be a bit of extra liquid). Ladle into warmed, shallow bowls, then top with the seared mushrooms, a few gratings of Parmesan if using, and minced chives. This is extra-good ladled over a pat of butter, or with a finishing drizzle of olive oil.